October 9, 2017
Swinging the botafumeiro
A botafumeiro means “smoke expeller” in Galician. It is a big incense burner. The botafumeiro has been used since the Middle Ages, originally to clean the air when crowds of pilgrims having completed the Camino de Santiago arrived in Santiago de Compostela after their long journey.
It is made of brass and bronze. It is painted with a thin layer of silver. It weighs 80kg that is very heavy. It is 1.6 m high.
There is a very large rope that holds the botafumeiro up with a big pulley. The pulley was first installed in 1604. The rope lasts about 20 years before it is replaced.
The men that swing the botafumeiro are called tiraboleiros. Tiraboleiros is a Galician term meaning “incense burner.”
The swinging of the burner is based on there being enough money from the pilgrims or benefactors. It is estimated to cost 300 euro each session it is swung. It does not swing every mass. When mum went to church after hiking the Camino Frances it was not swung.
Today mum and I left early on our last Camin Portugese hiking day to make it to church. At the end of the service Mum went up and had communion. Mum said she did not think the incense burner was going to burn today as it had not happened yet.
Then out came 8 tiraboleiros with their red robes on. All the people in the congregation started whispering and getting excited!
The chief tiraboleiros lights the charcoal in the burner. There is about 40kg of charcoal in the burner.
The incense inside the burner is Frankincense. After it is lit the chief tiraboleiros initiates the swing.
The other 7 men get into position so they can pull on the rope to create a soaring pendulum effect.
The incense burner swings many times filling the cathedral in lots of smokey incense. It swings so big that I thought it was going to hit the ceiling. Music is played whilst it swings.
The men then came closer together and very still to slow the botafumeiro down. They then shovel the hot coals out.
Mass ends!
By Finn and Mum
