Crossing the Pyrenees

 

Is not the mountain far more awe-inspiring and more clearly visible to one passing through the valley than to those who inhabit the mountain?

Kahlil Gibran

Day 1 St Jeans Pied de Port to Orisson’s

St Jeans Pied de Port was filled with many excited pilgrims about to begin their Camino. A great little village with narrows streets, plenty of cafes, albergues, and a medieval atmosphere. Our stay at the cosy family operated Berilai  Albergue I recommend for any one beginning their Camino.

The following morning we set off to begin our Camino Frances, only lasting 300m prior to stopping at the first cafe! Pen informs me early this routine  is called “2nd breakfast”. We then set off again. The first small hill out of St Jeans Pied de Port was feeling rather hard to push the pram. After 2km Mother Earth discovered the brake was on the pram! With that fixed I felt amazing for the short term until the very steep ascent started.

Most pilgrims will tackle the Route de Napoleon with a 1390m ascent in one day. However with a pram and Little Miss Grace we broke the first day into two. It was a strenuous uphill climb totally rewarded with panoramic views of the countryside. We stopped regularily to catch our breath, rest Grace’s little legs, talking to passing pilgrims and photographing the stunning landscape.

We stopped for coffee and lunch at Hunto. Following this was rocky switch backs and thankfully Little Miss Grace was still out of the pram walking.

Mid afternoon we arrived at Orisson. We had pre booked a bed at the  Orisson Albergue. We were given a coin for a 5 minute shower, I wasn’t sure that was going to be long enough to wash the sweat from our bodies! We joined in for the pilgrim dinner. Grace must have eaten 6 chicken legs, 4 bread rolls and fell asleep on my lap before dessert was served! The night was filled with lots of laughter, introductions to each pilgrim journey, and a few to many wines! Our adventure and new friendships had begun without us truly being aware.

Weather: hot and humid

Km: 8km

Day 2 Orisson to Roncesvalles

The  sound of pilgrims sratching through their packs  getting ready for the day woke me early. So up I got to photograph the beautiful sunrise over the Pyrenees and to reflect on the hike from yesterday.

After breakfast we headed off towards Roncesvalles. The steep ascent once again felt never ending. However easily distracted with the morning sun rays filterimg through the deep valleys as patches of fog lifted. We were once again rewarded with stunning  panoramic views in all directions.

 

Pen informed me that 2nd breakfast would occur at the “food van” who would be parked at about 7.5 km away! This is the only food stop between Orisson’s and Roncesvalles. Little Miss Grace and I were very excited to see the van! I quickly consumed a can of coke and coffee chaser and Grace a chocolate muffin.

The track now left the road and headed on a combination of grass, rocks, and dirt tracks and up and up an up we went!  When reaching the top at Col de Lepoeder I took the alternate path to Roncenvalles 5.3 km which was not as steep of descent .

Weather: warm and blowing a gail, so strong it was hard to keep our hats on.

Distance: 22 km

Day 3 Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Today when I half woke to the sound of rain I initially thought how relaxing and beautiful. However, when I fully woke I quickly realised this was not so good with a pram, backpack and a small child!

Little Miss Grace is smiling like never before! I then quickly realised that she had planned to be cosy, warm and dry in the pram! We set off through dark woodlands and 2nd breakfast is had at the little village of Burguete. Finally the uphil climb is over and the steep descent into Zubiri.

Zubiri this evening had a local festival on with extremely loud music that played various songs in English and in Spanish, ending the following morning at 0530am. Little Miss Grace thankfully slept through and was fresh to start again. As for Pen and I we desperately needed coffee to function!

Weather: morning rain and 19oC

Distance: 21.9km

Day 4 Zubiri to Pamplona

The elevation map made today look better than it was. Very narrow paths for long stretches made pushing a pram very difficult. The last 5km is much noiser from Arre to Pamplona as you pass through the city streets. As we enter into the inner part Pamplona I was grateful to see the Irunka Hostel sign and to know we had completed this part of the Camino!

Weather: warm with afternoon rain

Distance: 21km