May 16, 2023
Monesterio – Zafra 47km
14 May 2023
Heading to Zafra, we were met with the unfortunate news that festival season had completely booked out our planned accommodation. This meant that we had to ride an extra leg to reach our next destination, making for a long and tiring day. However, the thought of meeting Camino Kymmy in Zafra and staying at our first Parador kept us going. The Parador was especially enticing with its promising pool, which I dreamt of swimming in all afternoon.
Despite the guidebook’s assurances of an all downhill ride, we encountered some sneaky uphill stretches. But finally, we arrived in Zafra and were reunited with Camino Kymmy. We made lunch together, as finding an open restaurant on a Sunday in Spain can be challenging.
After lunch, we explored the old town, wandering through its winding alleyways. We stumbled upon a little bakery run by nuns, where we indulged in some delicious local biscuits. We also visited a couple of churches, taking a moment to sit and reflect.
On Mother’s Day, Penny found a lovely restaurant for dinner. The tapas and meals were exquisite, and the handmade Mother’s Day cards I had packed were adored by my mum, Penny (my godmother), and Camino Kymmy.
To top it all off, the Zafra Parador was located within the old castle, adding to the magic of our stay.
Castle History
It was in 1437 that the first Count of Feria began building the fortress of Zafra. Completed in 1443, it constituted a splendid baronial residence within a fortification.
Beginning in 1600 under the second Duke of Feria, it was re-modelled as a palace: a marble courtyard was erected with two bays with terraces flanking the façade and balconies opening on to a new garden.
Immediately afterwards (1605-1609), the Acebuche (Wild Olive) gate was built, forming the new main approach to the military parade square. A passage was also constructed to the convent church of Santa Marina, wich was rebwilt to prove more aesthetically pleasing upon joining with the nobleman’s residence.
The death of the fourth Duke in 1634 marked the end of the Suarez de Figueroa y Cordoba lineage. His titles and possessions were inherited by the Marquis and Marquise of Priego and subsequently by the Duke and Duchess of Medinaceli, marking the end of the ducal palace as a family residence. From this point on it would house only the Tax Offices of the State of Feria and provide living quarters for civil servants, either rented or loaned.
Despite suffering artillery attacks during the War of the Independence, the Palace maintained its habitability and administrative functions, as a residence or venue for public festivities. From the middle of the 19th century it housed the Telegraph Office and Zafra’s first secondary school.
It was put to use as a hospital and prison during the Civil War (1936-39) and during the postwar period as a school for arts and trades, although certain parts continued to provide shelter for destitute families.In the early sicties conversations were held to turn it into a Parador hotel and so it was inaugured on 15th October 1968. Since then it has stood as a flagship of tourism and a catalyst for the city of Zafra.
